Tip of the Month


Each month, there will be a tip included in the Forage for Thought newsletter, which will also be posted here...

 

 

AVOID LONG TERM USE OF ULCER MEDICATIONS

They either turn off the acid-making machinery in the stomach or they neutralize acid. Stomach acid is a necessary component of your horse's immune system, destroying harmful pathogens that your horse picks up from the ground. Acid is also necessary to start protein digestion.

 

Published in the May, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

GARLIC MAY NOT BE WORTH THE RISK

Do you feed garlic to help keep the bugs away? The active ingredient in raw garlic is called allicin (also known as N-propyl disulfide) and can lead to Heinz Body anemia. Commercial products use a heat processing which supposedly destroys all of the damaging allicin, but also reduces  the insect-repelling properties. It's true that the strong odor will help keep bugs away, but most folks love the real smell of horses, and would not enjoy one that reeks of garlic.  Bottom line... the jury is still out on the long term safety of garlic-containing products. Until we know more, feeding garlic may not be worth the risk.

 

Published in the June, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

Piles of grass clippings are not safe 

Are you tempted to cut your grass, then rake it into soft, fragrant, tasty piles of clippings for your horse to nibble? According to equine nutrition expert, Dr. Juliet Getty, this should be the last thing you encourage your horse to eat. It has to do with that extra step: raking. Grass clippings that stay on the pasture after mowing, where they can dry in small amounts, are generally not a problem. But never gather them into piles to feed them to your horse. It’s partly because clippings are too easy to over-consume, and eating large amounts at one time can lead to excess fermentation in the hind gut, potentially causing colic and laminitis. Piles of clippings can rapidly invite mold to form (especially prevalent in hot, humid environments), which can lead to colic. Finally, because there is no air inside a dense pile, botulism can develop, which turns this “treat” absolutely deadly.

 

Published in the July, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

salt, not electrolyte supplements, needs more attention during hot months

Your horse sweats more during the summer, making electrolyte supplementation worth considering. But electrolytes alone will not protect your horse against dehydration. Your horse needs to have enough sodium (salt). One ounce per day (two Tablespoons) is adequate for maintenance during cool months, but hot, humid weather calls for at least two ounces per day (and more if your horse works). One way to accomplish this, provide a plain, white salt block in close proximity. But make sure your horse licks it – many do not due to tiny scratches that form on the tongue. Even better, is to offer salt free choice by pouring granulated table salt in a bucket (iodized only if your horse is not receiving iodine from another source). You can also add salt to each meal. Mineralized salt blocks are often neglected due their bitter taste. Be aware that electrolyte supplements should only be given to a horse that is already in good sodium balance.  They are designed to replace what is lost from perspiration and should contain at least 13 grams of chloride, 6 grams of sodium, and 5 grams of potassium. If your horse works more than two hours at a time, provide a dose of electrolytes after exercise by adding it to a gallon of water (be sure to keep fresh, clean water nearby). 

 

Published in the August, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

Five points to consider before using a calming supplement

Championship season is here, and “show nerves” are common, even in horses. Agitated, nervous horses that are normally well behaved may benefit from a calming supplement. These products can contain vitamins, or minerals, or herbs, or amino acids. So, which to choose and how best to use them?  Before making a decision, consider these important points:

·         An empty stomach is the main cause for behavioral issues—forage (hay and/or pasture) should be available at all times.

·         Magnesium deficiency may be the issue, since most horses don’t get enough of this mineral—if this is true for your horse, supplementing 5,000 mg of magnesium per 500 lbs of body weight will make a positive change in demeanor.

·         A borderline B vitamin deficiency will affect behavior and can result when the hindgut microbial population is compromised by stress, high starch diets, illness, or antibiotics. Thiamin (vitamin B1) has been shown to be especially effective at high doses (1 mg per pound of body weight). Prebiotics that feed existing microbes also result in more B vitamin production.

 ·         Tryptophan, an essential amino acid, leads to serotonin synthesis in the brain and can be useful in soothing a nervous horse. For this effect to occur, it is best to offer tryptophan as a paste between meals. When added to a meal, tryptophan will not be used for serotonin production and the calming effect will be significantly diminished

·         Caution! Herbs such as chamomile, valerian, black cohosh, ginger root, and passion flower may have an over-tranquilizing effect, interact with other medications, and have side effects. Consult with your veterinarian before using.

 

Published in the September, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

BEWARE OF FALL PASTURE -- LAMINITIS RISK INCREASES!

As temperatures begin to dip, Dr. Juliet Getty, equine nutrition specialist, wants your horse to make the transition to winter feeding in good shape, and that means understanding about the sugar and starch that lurk in your fall pasture growth.

 

If you have horses that are overweight, insulin resistant, or suffer from equine Cushing’s disease, you know about keeping them off of spring grasses. The non-structural carbohydrate (NSC) content is too high for free-choice grazing to be safe, increasing the risk for laminitis. But don’t think you're out of the woods once spring is over. True, summer is safer, but as early fall nights cool down below 40 degrees F, the dangerous carbohydrates once again increase.

 

Grass accumulates NSC (sugars and starch) as it is exposed to sunlight. The levels reach a peak in the late afternoon. During the dark hours, the grass uses this fuel for itself, and by morning, the levels are at their lowest. But, cold nights prevent grass from using as much NSC, resulting in a higher NSC concentration during the day.

 

Don’t be fooled by the brown grass you see in the late fall. Spread it apart and you’ll likely see some green at the base, which is high in sugar and starch. If it hasn’t rained in a while, your grass will look dried out; but be careful – dry grass can actually have a higher NSC percentage than long, lush-looking grass.

 

Published in the October, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

WEEKLY BRAN MASHES ARE ASKING FOR TROUBLE!

The bacteria that live in the hindgut need consistency. That's why new feeds need to be introduced very slowly, taking a few weeks to completely switch over. A bran mash, or any feed for that matter, is unfamiliar to the hindgut microbial population and exposing them to it suddenly can trigger a dangerous colic attack. But there’s more to be concerned about, when it comes to feeding bran mashes.

 

Many people feel that a bran mash helps as a laxative. Sure, the manure becomes softer but that’s because bran irritates the digestive lining, leading to softer manure. This indigestion causes poor absorption of nutrients. Furthermore, bran is very high in phosphorus – it has 10 times more phosphorus than calcium. When phosphorus exceeds calcium, it can lead to porous bones and poor muscle contraction/relaxation.


If you want to feed a warm bran mash during this winter, consistency is key – it must be fed every day, not once a week.  Be sure to introduce it gradually and use a commercially fortified version that has added calcium to correct for its naturally inverted ratio. 

 

 

Published in the November, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

SNOW WILL NOT MEET YOUR HORSE'S WATER NEEDS!

Piles of fluffy snow in your pasture—and a horse that nibbles at them—making you think your horse is all set for water this winter? Sorry. Think again, please! The main cause of colic during the winter is from reduced water consumption. Snow will not provide enough water: A gallon (128 fluid ounces) of average-moisture snow only contains 10 ounces of water, far short of the 8-12 gallons of water your horse should consume each day. Also, eating snow will force your horse to burn precious calories to keep his body temperature steady.

 

Horses will not drink enough when the water is icy cold. Plan on heating your horse’s water to 50° F. And don’t forget the salt—it is necessary for electrolyte balance as well as to encourage your horse to drink. Either add table salt to each meal (one tablespoon, twice daily) or offer it free choice in a small bucket. A white salt block is helpful, though many horses avoid them. Mineralized or blue (from added iodine and cobalt) salt blocks are only appropriate if hay is the single feed source or if your horse is not receiving minerals from fortified feeds or supplements.

.

 

Published in the December, 2010 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

How Much does your horse weigh?

It’s important to know how much your horse weighs for a variety of reasons, such as calculating feed requirements, administering dewormers, and deciding how much medication to provide. Furthermore, most commercial feed preparations base their directions on your horse’s weight and activity level.

A weight tape provides an estimated weight. For an even better approximation (a scale, of course, is most accurate), use a tape measure (Click Here for a diagram**):

1.      Measure length in inches --a straight line from the point of shoulder to the buttocks.

2.      Measure girth in inches (circumference of the horse's body about 4" behind his front legs).

Weight (in lbs) = (Girth X Girth X Length) divided by 330

(To obtain weight in kg, measure length and girth in cm. Use the above formula, except divide by 11,900, instead of 330.)

Keep in mind that a horse can be of normal weight and still develop regional fat deposits along the crest of the neck, back, shoulder, and tail head, indicating insulin resistance (metabolic syndrome).

 

** copyright Dr. Robin Peterson 2010

 

Published in the January, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


What is a hay belly?

Ever been told that your horse has a hay belly and needs to lose weight? Well, relax! He’s not fat, he just has gas! In fact, gas production is normal and healthy. It indicates that your horse is getting enough hay for hindgut microbial fermentation to occur. A distended abdomen is often referred to as a “hay belly” to describe an overweight horse, even when the rest of his body is normal, but fat does not accumulate extensively on the horse’s lower abdomen (belly).

 

Horses do accumulate fat in specific areas: neck, withers, back, ribs, shoulders, and tailhead. In 1984, Dr. Don Henneke, of Texas A&M University, developed a “body condition scoring system” that categorizes horses’ condition based on the amount of fat stored in these six areas. This system is still the mainstay for equine health professionals. Instructions for using the Henneke system are in Dr. Getty’s comprehensive book on equine nutrition, Feed Your Horse Like a Horse.

 

Horse owners who deliberately limit hay consumption and replace it with cereal grain to avoid a hay belly are doing their horses a disservice, and increasing the risk of colic and laminitis. Forage should be the foundation of any horse’s diet. It is vital for the health of the hindgut microbes, and hence, the health of your horse.

 

Published in the February, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


hooves -- putting the horse's best foot forward

 

Hooves are made of a hard, crusty protein called keratin. You cannot add keratin by painting it on – it is produced by specialized cells within the hooves called keratinocytes, which rely on a nutrient-rich blood supply.

 

Key nutrients for hoof health include omega-3 fatty acids, quality protein, minerals (including copper, zinc, and silicon), beta carotene (which is used to make vitamin A), and the old standby – biotin (approximately 20 mg per day).

 

It’s important to realize that hooves are low on your horse’s list of priorities. Available nutrients will first be used for survival – feeding vital organs (heart, liver, kidneys, lungs, glands). If nutrients remain, they can be used to feed hoof tissue. Therefore, unhealthy hooves are an indication that there just aren’t enough nutrients to go around. A forage-based diet, with proper vitamin/mineral supplementation to fill in nutritional gaps, will help ensure overall health, while protecting your horse’s feet.

Published in the March, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 

 


 
 

a serving of patience to balance spring grazing

 

“Now that spring is here, we need to take it slowly when transitioning any of our horses from hay to pasture,” says equine nutritionist Juliet M. Getty, Ph.D. “And for those of us with insulin resistant horses,” she adds, “we may also need a dose of patience.”

 

The first spring sprouts are actually lower in sugars and starch (non-structural carbohydrates—NSC) because they use all that energy to promote their own rapid growth. But horses crave fresh grass and will eat volumes of it, making their overall NSC consumption really high—dangerously high for horses who are overweight, cushingoid, or who have experienced insulin-related laminitis.

 

Once the grass has grown a few inches, it is able to synthesize NSC  (via photosynthesis), increasing NSC concentration and slowing growth. With changes in temperature, rainfall, grazing (or mowing), and sunlight exposure, the NSC levels ebb and flow so there is no way to specifically know how much NSC is present. Therefore, the proper management of laminitic horses is to limit the amount of grazing time, so the overall consumption of NSC is controlled.

 

To be safe, here are the rules:

·         When the night temperature is below 40 degrees F, the grass is too high in NSC day or night.

 

Once the night time temps are above 40 degrees:

·         The lowest NSC level is before the sun rises.

·         The highest NSC level is in late afternoon, after a sunny day.

 

There is no exact “best time” to turn out your horses on pasture. Generally speaking once the night time temps are above 40 degrees, it’s safest before dawn, until approximately 10:00 am, and then again at night, starting at around 11:00 pm. Start slowly, offering hay when horses are not on fresh grass.

 

Finally, test your pasture! Yes, testing is not only for hay. It will take some of the guesswork out of knowing which times are best.

 

Published in the April, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

do the math and calculate improved equine nutrition

 

Reading a hay analysis or puzzling over the ingredients in feed or supplements can be a chore, yet when considering particular elements—selenium, for example—some minor math can make a major difference to your horse’s health. You don’t need a computer (and maybe not even a calculator)—just master the simple formulas below.

 

Let’s start with ppm, which stands for “parts per million.” To best understand it, consider the word, “percent.” Percent refers to “parts per 100.” For example, “5 parts per 100” (5 percent) would look like 5/100 (five one hundredths) or 0.05. For ppm, “5 parts per million” looks like 5/1,000,000 (five one millionths) or 0.000005.

 

But this is often impractical to use. The best way to think of ppm is as milligrams per kilogram (mg/kg) of feed (since a mg is one millionth of a kg). Therefore, when using mg/kg, you have to make sure you’re dealing with kg of feed (instead of lbs) in order to make your calculations.

 

Consider this example: Let’s say your hay contains 0.2 ppm (mg/kg) of selenium. How many mg of selenium does 10 lbs of hay contain?

·         First, you need to convert the lbs to kg. Since there are 0.454 kg in one lb, make the conversion by multiplying lbs by 0.454. So, 10 lbs multiplied by 0.454 equals 4.54 kg (10 x 0.454 = 4.54). ·         Now you’re ready to calculate mg of selenium. Multiply 4.54 kg of hay by 0.2 ppm (or mg/kg) (4.54 x 0.2 = 0.91). That gives you 0.91 mg of selenium in your 10 lbs of hay.

 

Formulas to remember:

·         Convert lbs to kg: lbs x 0.454 = kg

·         Calculate to find mg: kg X ppm (or mg/kg) = mg

 

Published in the May, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

should your horse have iodized or non-iodized salt?

 

A full-sized horse does best on a diet that offers 1 to 6 mg of iodine each day to keep his thyroid gland working properly. Because the iodine content of grass is too low to measure, it is best to rely on supplementation -- from salt or other sources -- to meet your horse's need. Many supplements and fortified feeds already add it. It's always best to know what your horse is consuming since too much iodine can damage the thyroid gland.
 
Since all full-sized horses require at least one ounce (2 tablespoons) of salt per day for maintenance (and up to 3 ounces/day when perspiring heavily), iodized salt is a good way to add iodine and provide the needed salt as well. Granulated salt that you buy in the grocery store comes in both non-iodized and iodized versions; one teaspoon of iodized table salt contains 0.4 mg of iodine (3 tsp = 1 Tablespoon = 15 ml).
 
White and brown salt blocks generally do not contain iodine, whereas blue and red ones do. Sea salt, kelp, and other natural salt sources can vary tremendously in their iodine content. Only use reputable sources that guarantee their iodine analysis in writing.

 

Published in the June/July, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


 

sorting the wheat from the chaff when seeKing nutritional advice

 

Experts, real and self-proclaimed, abound in every aspect of the horse world, including equine nutrition.  They tout impressive sounding titles or have a string of degrees following their names, yet one expert’s advice may conflict with another’s, making it difficult to judge whose advice is right for your horse.

 

Degrees and certifications are generally earned from accredited colleges, universities, or schools of veterinary medicine; the American Registry of Professional Animal Scientists also offers a reputable certification in equine nutrition. So before taking advice at face value, examine the expert’s credentials.  Look at the school from which this person graduated and make certain it not only exists, but is accredited by a reputable accrediting agency. 

 

An example of misleading “credentials” appeared recently in a prominent internet magazine. The author claimed to be a “certified holistic practitioner.” But the certifying institute is not found via a Google search. And the expertise the author offers is virtually self-taught through several years of experience using holistic equine therapies. Advice from someone with this type of credential, or lack thereof, is what you should ignore.

 

Keep in mind that a person with an advanced degree, preferably a master’s degree or doctorate, has many years of training and research in the field.  A two-year program, or even a bachelor’s degree, is just not enough time to delve into all of the biochemistry, endocrinology, gastroenterology, and physiology required to become truly qualified to evaluate a horse’s nutritional status.

 

Anyone can call himself a nutritionist. Anyone. Be sure that the person you are trusting with your horse’s nutritional care has a reputable degree earned by investing years of study specific to nutrition.

 

Published in the August, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought


measures to reduce cribbing

 

Your horse presses his top teeth against a solid object, arches his neck, and swallows air in a rocking motion. A grunting or gulping noise emerges. This is cribbing. Its true cause is unknown but genetics along with stressful circumstances appear to be the underlying problems. Cribbing is such a seriously addictive habit that many horses will actually prefer it to eating, and will slowly waste away.

Early weaning can lead to this negative behavior later in adult horses and while there’s nothing you can do to change the past, you can take measures to reduce physical discomfort and mental strains that contribute to cribbing. Cribbing collars are tormenting. They may discourage the behavior but they do not relieve the urge. Managing your horse’s conditions will help lessen the behavior. Here are some suggestions:

·         Provide freedom to graze and roam. This will have a remarkable effect on stopping this habit. If this is not feasible, give him as much outdoor space as possible.

·         Keep hay in front of your horse. This one simple change will calm your horse’s demeanor.

·         Do not isolate your horse. Non-cribbers will not “catch” the cribbing habit by seeing another horse do it.

·         Consider ulcers. Stress, forage restriction, and stalling can lead to ulcers. Cribbing is often a result. Basic nutritional management to cure ulcers includes free-choice hay, water consumption, avoiding starchy feeds (such as oats and corn) and sweet feeds, and restoring microbial populations through probiotic use.

Published in the September, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought

 


FREE RADICALS - BAD GUYS MEET THEIR MATCH IN ANTIOXIDANTS!

What is all the fuss about free radicals, and what does it mean for your horse’s health? A free radical is a very unhappy molecule. Although it was once stable, it is now missing an electron. Determined to become whole, it sets out in search of another vulnerable molecule and steals its electron. The original bad guy is now neutral and can relax. But in its wake, it has created another free radical that is just as desperate to steal and destroy.

In your horse (just as in humans) a small number of free radicals is normal, but factors such as stress, nutritional imbalances, illness or injury can cause these outlaws to multiply beyond the body’s ability to cope. Most commonly, we see the result 
as decreased immune function, inflammation and pain.

The only way to stop this destructive rampage is to call on a nearby “free-radical neutralizer.” This hero sacrifices itself by giving the free radical the electron it needs, thereby protecting defenseless cells from harm. Since our hero doesn’t seek his own stability, his own demise is without consequence. Without these noble molecules, free radicals would be entirely unchecked in devastating healthy tissue. These selfless champions are known as antioxidants.

 

Antioxidants should be part of your horse’s nutritional program. Vitamins C, E, and beta carotene are the most common, and are plentiful in fresh, healthy pasture. Once living grass is cut, dried, and stored as hay, it loses these precious nutrients, creating nutritional gaps that should be filled through supplementation.

Published in the October, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought



FLAX, CHIA, OR FISH OIL -- WHICH IS BEST FOR OMEGA 3S?

Omega 3 fatty acids keep your horse healthy in a variety of ways. They balance immune function, protect joints and ligaments, diminish airway inflammation, support gastrointestinal function, reduce skin allergies, and decrease nervousness. Fresh grass has ample omega 3s -- four times more than omega 6s.  Hay, however, has virtually none left. And commercial feeds usually contain soybean or corn oils, which are very high in inflammatory omega 6s. While there’s one omega 6 that is necessary – linoleic acid -- too much of a good thing can create an imbalance.

To provide omega 3s, horse owners generally turn to one of three sources – flaxseeds, chia seeds, or fish oils. Keep in mind that there are several fatty acids that can be classified as “omega 3” based on their chemical structure, but there is only one omega 3 fatty acid that your horse cannot produce on his own, and therefore, must be in the diet: Alpha Linolenic Acid (ALA). The fat found in flaxseeds (oil or ground into a meal) and chia seeds is predominantly in the form on ALA; flax provides approximately 4:1 omega 3s to omega 6s, while chia has slightly fewer omega 3s.

Fish oils are high in two omega 3 fatty acids: docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). Though horses are not fish-eaters, both of these fatty acids offer strong anti-inflammatory benefits and may be useful for heavily exercised muscles and joints. But, fish oil does not provide the essential ALA.  Horses need ALA in their diets because their bodies are unable to manufacture it. They can, however, create DHA and EPA from ALA. Therefore, supplementing the diet with flax or chia will better mimic the omega 3s found in plants -- what horses are designed to eat.

Published in the November, 2011 issue of Forage for Thought


is glucosamine safe for the insulin resistant horse?

Glucosamine is a sugar (glucose) bound to an amino acid (building block of protein). It reduces inflammation and is a precursor to building blocks found in cartilage. Cartilage cells are able to produce glucosamine from glucose, but supplementation is often preferable if your horse is experiencing osteoarthritis. It can be supplemented orally or via injection.

Many horse owners are reluctant to give glucosamine to their insulin resistant horse that has joint pain. This is a valid concern. Insulin resistant people have experienced adverse effects when given high dosages of glucosamine (though the research results are mixed). But since glucosamine is not digested down to glucose, it should not cause a rise in insulin. So what causes the glucose and hence, insulin to rise? Evidently, glucosamine confuses the cells into thinking that they have enough glucose. So, glucose from other sources cannot enter the cells. The result can be increased blood glucose, not from glucosamine, but from the diet in general, leading to elevated insulin.


That’s what happens in people; we really do not know if the same thing happens in horses. So, use your judgment. If your insulin resistant horse has been taking glucosamine without any problem, continue using it. But if your horse is battling laminitis or equine Cushing’s disease, consider getting a joint supplement that does not contain glucosamine. You can safely use ingredients such as MSM, chondroitin, hyaluronic acid, n-acetyl-l-carnitine, cetyl myristoleate, and orthosilicic acid. Or start with two basic ingredients – vitamin C and omega 3 fatty acids -- especially in the older horse (who no longer produces the same level of vitamin C as when younger). Vitamin C is used for collagen production (which covers and cushions the surfaces of opposing bones) and omega 3s are potent anti-inflammatory agents. 


Published in the January 2012 issue of Forage for Thought

 


Easy Keeper? Think psyllium!

It’s a vicious cycle – elevated glucose leads to elevated insulin. Elevated insulin leads to excess body fat. Excess body fat leads to too much insulin in the blood (insulin resistance). If only blood glucose levels could be reduced – that would put a halt to this circular pattern. Removing starchy cereal grains, molasses, sugary treats, and testing your hay for low levels of non-structural carbohydrates – all of these are important. But did you know that adding psyllium husks to your horse’s daily diet will also reduce blood glucose? 


The outer husk of the psyllium seed (an herb called Plantago ovata) is rich in water-soluble fiber. It has long been used to help remove sand from the hindgut as a means of controlling sand colic. But recent research has revealed its ability to lower blood glucose in horses. It is believe that the fiber slows down glucose absorption and therefore, reduces insulin output from the pancreas. 

 

Low sugar/starch diets, plenty of exercise, reduction of stress… all great ways to help your overweight horse lose weight. And now we can add psyllium to the list! Adding 1/3 cup per meal will lower blood glucose and lower blood insulin, making weight loss easier and preventing obesity-related disorders.


Published in the February 2012 issue of Forage for Thought